Alpamayo,
often called the most beautiful mountain in the world, lies in the Cordillera
Blanca, in the Peruvian Andes. Its height is 5947m.(19511 ft.) above sea
level. Alpamayo is a steep, perfectly shaped pyramid of ice, one of many
fine peaks that comprise the Santa Cruz massif, the northernmost massif
of the Cordillera Blanca. Alpamayo is smaller than many of its neighboring
peaks, but overcomes this shortcoming by its breathtaking form. It actually
has two sharp summits, North and South, separated by a narrow corniced
ridge.
Some more facts:
| Latitude |
8° 56' S |
| Longitude |
77° 42' E |
| First Ascent |
1957, by G. Hauser, F. Knauss, B.
Huhn and H. Wiedmann (German expedition) |
| Best Climbing Months: |
May, June, July, August,
September |
The trek to Alpamayo Base Camp started
on June 5, 2001. It took us all day to drive from Huaraz to Cashapampa
(2950m.). The next day, we started our trek, and hiked up to Llamacoral(3640m.)
in a few hours. Llamacoral is nothing more then a very small farm, a beer
stand, and some donkey pastures. But..with an amazing view!
Llamacoral, with beerstand on
the left, at 3640m.
The
third day of the trek to Alpa BC, we had a late start and (after being
very sick from no doubt some bad food) I stumbled into Alpa BC late in
the afternoon, crashed into my tent (which had already been set up) and
just layed there for some 17 hours. When Doc Tom checked on me in the evening,
I suddenly felt very sick again. Thanks Tom! But I guess his pills helped,
and I felt much better in the morning.
Alpamayo, the South-East Face,
from Alpamayo Base Camp.
Waking up in the tent at Moraine
Camp (4900m.).
Alpamayo Moraine Camp (4900m.).
En route (+/- 5100m.) to Alpamayo
High Camp.
At the bottom of the steep part
up to the col (5300m.).
 
Looking over the edge, with BC
visible (left), and (right) Doc Tom relaxing a little bit.
High Camp with lower part of
Alpamayo visible. This was the best view out of 40 hours in High Camp.
The Ferrari Route, the most popular
on the peak, climbs up one of the shallow gullies between flutings on the
South-West Face. The Ferrari Route lies in one of the gullies on the left
edge of the photo. In normal conditions the climb consists of steep hard
snow up, the last bit changes to water ice. About 8 pitches of climbing
are necessary from the bergschrund to the summit ridge. Descent is straight
down the same route, by rappel.
 
The left part of Alpamayo covered
in clouds(left), and (right) an Austrian climbing party leaving for BC
again, climbing from HC over the col.
We reached High Camp in the afternoon
of June 9. On the early morning of June 10, an avalanche came down from
high up Alpamayo. It never became clear where it exactly came from, the
view kept hidden by clouds, but it problably was a serac collapse from
the upper flanks. The avalanche swept away the trail up to the bergschrund
and is still somewhat visible on the left picture. The clouds seemed to
come from an amazon weather system, and as the weather didn't seem to improve,
we descended again on June 11.
As Alpamayo seemed to block the
clouds coming in from the east, the weather on the other side cleared up
every now and then, resulting in beautiful pictures of Quitaraju (6036m.).
All that was left to do was looking
at a stunning sunset at 5450m., the evening before we descended. We even
discussed the possibilities of seeing the Pacific ocean in the pink, purple
and orange distance.
A picture to proove to my friends
that, indeed 'Mezekouw has reached a lonely height'!
 
Descending the col in bad weather:
Tom goes down first (left), followed by Roger (right) who manages to tangle
himself up in the ropes.
Me and Roger looking at our porters
who are speeding up by letting themselfes slide down.
 
Looking back up the descended
steep part to the col (left) and (right) back on rock again!
Sunrise on Artesonraju (6025m.)
from Alpamayo Base Camp: The mountain that everybody knows from the Paramount
movie company, but that hardly anybody knows by name...
...and again at sunset.
Alpamayo Base Camp (4300m.) after
the climb: drying everything!
Alpa BC: Dining tent & cooking
tent view down the valley.
A well-deserved meal after the
unsuccesful climb with wine and fresh chicken! Clockwise from left to right:
Tom, Victor, Mich, Richard, Jeroen, Ivry, Anders and Roger.
On the trek out: a beautiful
view up the Santa Cruz valley, with at the end of it Taulliraju (5830m.).
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