You are here: Mountaineering  Andes Expedition  Alpamayo
 
Intro
Everest Facts
8000+
Links
Books
Pictures Leysin
Andes Expedition
   Andes
   Cordillera Blanca
   Huaraz, Peru
   Ishinca
   Tocclaruju
   Alpamayo

 

Alpamayo (5947m.)
 

     Alpamayo, often called the most beautiful mountain in the world, lies in the Cordillera Blanca, in the Peruvian Andes. Its height is 5947m.(19511 ft.) above sea level. Alpamayo is a steep, perfectly shaped pyramid of ice, one of many fine peaks that comprise the Santa Cruz massif, the northernmost massif of the Cordillera Blanca. Alpamayo is smaller than many of its neighboring peaks, but overcomes this shortcoming by its breathtaking form. It actually has two sharp summits, North and South, separated by a narrow corniced ridge. 

Some more facts:
Latitude 8° 56' S
Longitude 77° 42' E
First Ascent 1957, by G. Hauser, F. Knauss, B. Huhn and H. Wiedmann (German expedition)
Best Climbing Months: May, June, July, August, September

The trek to Alpamayo Base Camp started on June 5, 2001. It took us all day to drive from Huaraz to Cashapampa (2950m.). The next day, we started our trek, and hiked up to Llamacoral(3640m.) in a few hours. Llamacoral is nothing more then a very small farm, a beer stand, and some donkey pastures. But..with an amazing view!


Llamacoral, with beerstand on the left, at 3640m.

The third day of the trek to Alpa BC, we had a late start and (after being very sick from no doubt some bad food) I stumbled into Alpa BC late in the afternoon, crashed into my tent (which had already been set up) and just layed there for some 17 hours. When Doc Tom checked on me in the evening, I suddenly felt very sick again. Thanks Tom! But I guess his pills helped, and I felt much better in the morning.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 


Alpamayo, the South-East Face, from Alpamayo Base Camp.


Waking up in the tent at Moraine Camp (4900m.).


Alpamayo Moraine Camp (4900m.).


En route (+/- 5100m.) to Alpamayo High Camp.


At the bottom of the steep part up to the col (5300m.).


Looking over the edge, with BC visible (left), and (right) Doc Tom relaxing a little bit.


High Camp with lower part of Alpamayo visible. This was the best view out of 40 hours in High Camp. 

The Ferrari Route, the most popular on the peak, climbs up one of the shallow gullies between flutings on the South-West Face. The Ferrari Route lies in one of the gullies on the left edge of the photo. In normal conditions the climb consists of steep hard snow up, the last bit changes to water ice. About 8 pitches of climbing are necessary from the bergschrund to the summit ridge. Descent is straight down the same route, by rappel. 


The left part of Alpamayo covered in clouds(left), and (right) an Austrian climbing party leaving for BC again, climbing from HC over the col.

We reached High Camp in the afternoon of June 9. On the early morning of June 10, an avalanche came down from high up Alpamayo. It never became clear where it exactly came from, the view kept hidden by clouds, but it problably was a serac collapse from the upper flanks. The avalanche swept away the trail up to the bergschrund and is still somewhat visible on the left picture. The clouds seemed to come from an amazon weather system, and as the weather didn't seem to improve, we descended again on June 11.
 


As Alpamayo seemed to block the clouds coming in from the east, the weather on the other side cleared up every now and then, resulting in beautiful pictures of Quitaraju (6036m.).


All that was left to do was looking at a stunning sunset at 5450m., the evening before we descended. We even discussed the possibilities of seeing the Pacific ocean in the pink, purple and orange distance.


A picture to proove to my friends that, indeed 'Mezekouw has reached a lonely height'!


Descending the col in bad weather: Tom goes down first (left), followed by Roger (right) who manages to tangle himself up in the ropes.


Me and Roger looking at our porters who are speeding up by letting themselfes slide down.


Looking back up the descended steep part to the col (left) and (right) back on rock again!


Sunrise on Artesonraju (6025m.) from Alpamayo Base Camp: The mountain that everybody knows from the Paramount movie company, but that hardly anybody knows by name...


...and again at sunset.


Alpamayo Base Camp (4300m.) after the climb: drying everything!


Alpa BC: Dining tent & cooking tent view down the valley.


A well-deserved meal after the unsuccesful climb with wine and fresh chicken! Clockwise from left to right: Tom, Victor, Mich, Richard, Jeroen, Ivry, Anders and Roger.


On the trek out: a beautiful view up the Santa Cruz valley, with at the end of it Taulliraju (5830m.).